Wine people like to associate an estate with a flagship – usually its most esteemed or awarded wine. In the case of Cloof, this was traditionally our Pinotage, on the basis of being crowned South Africa's Champion Pinotage in 2001. We do agree that Block 16 (planted in 1976) from which we make the Cloof Pinotage does give a wonderfully concentrated, and yet elegant wine.

But two wines we released in 2004 have us a little confused...

The first is the 2003 Cloof Crucible Shiraz, an insanely concentrated wine with dangerously seductive aromas and flavours. Based upon our experience of the 2004 vintage (still in barrel), as well as the 2005 (still fermenting, believe it, or not), the vineyard is producing the same flavour profile year after year. With an SAA First Class selection, Veritas Double-Gold, and Michelangelo Gold to its name, you needn't take our word for it that this is an exceptional wine.

Then, with a more classical and elegant profile, we have the 2003 Cloof Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot. The key to this wine, we believe, is the unique expression that we get from Cabernet Franc growing in Darling. A variety known for its perfume, it can be quite grassy if the fruit doesn't ripen properly (which is very definitely not a problem we ever experience at Cloof!). Grapeworx's panel rated it (along with Meerlust Rubicon) as the best Bordeaux-style blend in South Africa, and it picked up Gold medals at Veritas and the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles.

So, on the one hand we have a rich, savoury Shiraz, and on the other a wine that wouldn't be out of place in a tasting of St Emilion Grands Cru. The French have told the world that certain terroirs are best-suited to particular grape varieties. For them, shiraz (syrah) is grown across the south of France, reaching its apotheosis in the Northern Rhone. The best expression of Bordeaux varieties is reserved for the finest chateaux (first defined in 1855) in certain communes. All very well, but Bordeaux and the Rhone are quite different terroirs. I can assure you that the parts of Cloof planted to shiraz are no different to the ones with merlot and cabernet franc. How can one estate grow such dissimilar grape varieties so successfully? Quelle horreur!

So what is our flagship? The one thing we do know for certain is that wine drinkers' individual tastes and preferences are entirely subjective. For example, our Belgian customers love the Bordeaux-style blend, but find the Crucible too overpowering. To different – and sometimes the same – people, both wines are excellent in their own way.

Fighting for space in this idiosyncratic line-up is a Pinotage that's absolutely wonderful with food.

Oscar Foulkes